Bleu de Chauffe is a company concerned about reducing the environmental impact of its business at all stages in production.
So of course, we have chosen to use only vegetable-tanned leather, as much for ecological reasons as for its superior quality, unique look, and the natural patina its develops as it ages. Because every leather bag from Bleu de Chauffe is an ethical leather bag, made to last.
CHROME TANNING
Tanning is a crucial stage in the process of transforming animal hide into leather. Among the various tanning methods, chrome tanning has become one of the most popular for companies, as it is the quickest and cheapest. This process uses chrome salts to stabilize the fibers in the leather.
Chrome tanning is faster than other tanning methods, such as vegetable tanning. Hides can be treated in a matter of days, rather than several weeks. This efficient process enables manufacturers to respond to market demand quicker, and at a much lower cost. However, this method is very unethical.
One of the main drawbacks of chrome tanning is its environmental impact. The chemical agents used in the process, in particular the chrome itself, are extremely damaging to the environment. If the waste water from tanning factories is not treated properly (as is often the case), it can contaminate the soil and the water, as well as having an impact on local flora and fauna.
What is more, exposure to these chemical substances can have serious consequences for tannery workers’ health.
Chrome, in particular in hexavalent form, is a known carcinogen and can cause a number of different conditions. Prolonged exposure to this metal can also cause skin and breathing problems. This is an even bigger issue in countries where environmental regulations are less strict or safe working practices are neglected.
Another drawback of chrome tanning is that it alters some of the hide’s natural properties. For example, it is less breathable than vegetable-tanned leather. This difference can affect how comfortable leather items are, in particular clothing and shoes, where good ventilation is essential.
Yet another drawback is the durability of the colors. Leather tanned using chrome tends to fade more quickly when exposed to direct sunlight or chemical products, losing its esthetic qualities after a while.
VEGETABLE TANNING
Vegetable tanning is a traditional way of treating leather using plant extracts to preserve this material and bring out its natural beauty. This technique has gained in popularity in recent years, in particular due to its many environmental and esthetic advantages.
One of the main advantages of vegetable tanning is that it is, by nature, environmentally friendly, which means leather produced in this way is ethical leather. Unlike chemical tanning methods which use chrome, heavy metals, and toxic chemical agents, vegetable tanning uses natural tannins extracted from various plants and trees, such as oak, mimosa, and olive. This approach minimizes toxic waste and reduces the carbon footprint of the leather, making it a much more sustainable option for our planet.
On top of all that, vegetable-tanned leather is biodegradable, which means that it decomposes naturally in the environment. This is in complete contrast to chemically-treated leather, which can last for decades and pollutes the soil. By choosing vegetable-tanned leather, consumers are choosing eco-responsible leather that contributes to reducing waste and preserving the ecosystem.
Vegetable tanning makes for exceptionally robust, long-lasting leather. Leather treated using this method is often more resistant to damage and ages better. Over time, it develops a unique patina, giving it even more depth of character and beauty. This means that vegetable-tanned leather products can last a lifetime if they are looked after properly.
Vegetable-tanned leather is generally more pleasant to the touch and proves to be more supple than other types of leather – with a natural softness, items made from this material are super comfortable to wear.
Every piece of vegetable-tanned leather is unique, due to the nature of the tanning process. The variations in color and texture often produce items whose artisanal character makes them stand out from the crowd. What is more, vegetable tanning often allows for more creative license in terms of the finish and dye.
THE STAGES IN THE VEGETABLE TANNING PROCESS
The first step in vegetable tanning involves choosing quality raw materials. This type of tanning uses tannins: substances extracted from plants. Tannins can be found in a range of vegetable matter, such as tree bark (oak or chestnut), leaves, and roots. The choice of raw materials has a huge impact on the final color and properties of the vegetable-tanned leather.
Before beginning the tanning process, the raw hide has to be prepared. This often means careful cleaning to remove any residues of fat, meat, and blood. Next, the hide is sometimes immersed in a saline solution to preserve it and prevent it from deteriorating. This pre-treatment phase is crucial: it prepares the hide so that the tannins are absorbed uniformly.
The main process in vegetable tanning involves applying the tannins to the hide, once it has been prepared. This stage can be carried out in various different ways, but the most common method is to immerse the hide in a tannin-rich solution for several weeks. The hide gradually absorbs the tannins, making it resistant to decomposition yet still supple. The length of the tanning period depends on the thickness of the hide and the type of tannin used.
Once the tanning is complete, the hide goes through several finishing stages in order to improve its appearance and texture. This may include drying, polishing, and applying oil or wax to nourish the leather.
The final stage in vegetable tanning is conditioning. This involves folding or cutting the leather according to the specific requirements of the finished product, whether shoes, a bag, or another leather item. After conditioning, the vegetable-tanned leather is now ethical leather, ready to be used or sold.
THE VEGETABLE-TANNED LEATHER BAG FROM BLEU DE CHAUFFE
In order to create unique items which are made to last, at Bleu de Chauffe we use only full-grain, vegetable-tanned leather for our leather bags.
However, we need several different types of leather to make each one of our bags: different thicknesses of leather are necessary for the various different parts of the bag.
For the main section, the body of the bag, we use milled leather – leather that has been softened by beating and tumbling the hide in a fulling mill (a type of hydraulic mill). For the straps and handles, we use thicker, more rigid leather, such as the leather used in saddle making.
According to the part of the bag it is to be used for, the leather is also patinated, polished, and oiled to varying degrees. Vegetable tanning allows for a variation in color depending on the thickness of the leather, which gives our bags a pull-up effect.
Every Bleu de Chauffe bag is a vegetable-tanned leather bag, an eco-responsible bag, an ethical bag.
More and more consumers are concerned about the origins and manufacturing methods that lie behind the products they buy. Vegetable tanning, often associated with local, artisanal production, contributes to more responsible consumer choices. By choosing vegetable-tanned leather products, consumers are supporting an industry that values ethics, quality artisanship, and durability.
