Tartan, this iconic checkered pattern, embodies a rich history that spans centuries, from the Scottish Highlands to the runways of contemporary fashion shows. A symbol of identity, resilience, and style, tartan has evolved while preserving its deep essence. Discover its origins, its historical role in Scotland, and its influence on fashion, all the way to Bleu de Chauffe’s creation of a tartan bag line.
What is tartan?
TARTAN: ORIGINS, DEFINITION, AND ETYMOLOGY.
The word "tartan" comes from the Old French "tiretaine," referring to a fabric made of wool and linen. In Scottish Gaelic, the term "breacan" means "spotted" or "speckled," referring to the fabric’s colorful patterns.
Tartan is thus defined as a fabric adorned with characteristic patterns, formed by the interweaving of horizontal and vertical bands of different colors.
FIRST APPEARANCE OF THE TARTAN FABRIC
The earliest traces of tartan date back to the Iron Age, around 3000 BC in China, where this fabric adorned the headdresses of jade statues. However, it is in Scotland that it gained worldwide fame, playing a major role in the country's political and feudal life.
Its appearance in Scotland dates back to the 3rdᵈ or 4thᵗʰ century. The first fabrics, made of wool and dyed using natural dyes extracted from local plants, reflected the resources available in the Scottish Highlands. The checkered patterns, created by interweaving threads of different colors, already existed, though they were less elaborate than those we know today.
THE MEANING OF TARTAN IN SCOTTISH CLANS
In the 16th century, tartan began to be used to distinguish the different regions of Scotland. Gradually, each clan adopted its own pattern, called a "sett," which allowed others to identify the family affiliation of the wearer.
Traditionally, each tartan is unique and carries a specific meaning. The colors used had particular significance: blue symbolized loyalty and nobility, green represented nature, and red stood for courage or sacrifice.
These patterns were passed down from generation to generation, strengthening the sense of identity and pride within the clans. And it is in this fabric that the iconic kilts are made.
The history of tartan in Scotland.
HOW IS TARTAN WOVEN?
Tartan weaving requires a unique artisanal skill, great precision, and impeccable attention to detail to achieve a perfectly symmetrical and consistent pattern. It is woven using the "twill" technique, where the weft threads pass under one warp thread and then over the next two, creating the characteristic diagonal pattern. This method gives the fabric durability and flexibility while highlighting the complexity of the designs.
With the advent of the Industrial Revolution, tartan weaving techniques evolved. Mechanical looms enabled faster and larger-scale production, making tartan more accessible to a wider population. However, many artisans have preserved traditional methods, maintaining the authenticity and quality of Scottish tartan.
THE BAN ON THE TARTAN PATTERN
After the defeat of the Jacobite clans at the Battle of Culloden in 1746, the British government banned the wearing of tartan under the "Acts of Proscription," aimed at suppressing Scottish culture. This ban lasted for nearly forty years until its repeal in 1782.
Despite this dark period, tartan experienced a revival in the 19thᵗʰ century thanks to Queen Victoria and Prince Albert's enthusiasm for Scotland. Their Balmoral residence was decorated with tartans, and they frequently wore them, helping to restore its prestige and popularize it beyond Scottish borders.
Fun fact: The "Balmoral Tartan" was a pattern created by Prince Albert in 1853. This tartan is exclusively reserved for members of the royal family and cannot be worn without special permission.
THE ADOPTION OF TARTAN BY FASHION
In the 20th century, tartan expanded beyond its Scottish origins to become an iconic pattern on a global scale. Adopted by numerous designers, it has transcended time and integrated into various cultural movements. In the late 1970s and early 1980s, it became a powerful symbol of the punk movement, which repurposed it from traditional codes into a manifesto of rebellion and individuality.
In the 1990s, tartan was also embraced by the grunge aesthetic and alternative rock, particularly by British and Scottish bands like the "Bay City Rollers," who made it a distinctive element of their visual identity.
Its influence extends beyond music and fashion: the tartan pattern has also established itself in popular culture. It frequently appears in films, TV series, and even school uniforms, embodying both tradition and modernity, a sense of belonging and uniqueness. This duality contributes to its timelessness and its ability to continually reinvent itself.
Even today, tartan continues to inspire contemporary fashion. During recent Fashion Weeks, tartan was omnipresent on the runways. Designers and prestigious fashion houses are reinterpreting this iconic pattern through bold collections.
Tartan canvas at Bleu de Chauffe.
TARTAN AT BLEU DE CHAUFFE, A CAREFULLY SELECTED MATERIAL
At Bleu de Chauffe, we love tartan for everything it represents: a rich culture, deeply rooted in its land and its independence. Far beyond the kilt and the Scottish symbol, tartan embodies the pride of showcasing one’s identity and uniqueness. A serene affirmation of style and way of being. And that resonates with us!
To make our bags ultra-durable, we partnered with our trusted supplier, British Millerain, to source an exceptional tartan fabric. Together, we selected a twill canvas with outstanding qualities: the waxed cotton canvas "tartan/cambric bonded."
A true holy grail in the world of outdoor cotton canvas: its specific coating makes it waterproof, effectively shielding against the elements while maintaining flexibility and lightness. It is a true weaving armor, recognizable by its diagonal structure where threads interlace obliquely (just like authentic Scottish tartan). This ultra-tight weave boasts a weight of 520 g/m², offering enhanced resistance to wear and friction, ensuring durability against all odds.
Maintenance-wise: the tartan canvas is easy to clean with soapy water and a soft-bristle brush.
With its timeless pattern, tartan lends our bags a unique elegance and a bold character. Its refined graphics add a distinctive touch to our designs, subtly enhancing every silhouette. More than just a pattern, it embodies authentic craftsmanship and a confident taste for timeless elegance.
In full tartan, it gives a sleek look to the Méline tote bag, the Missak aviator bag, and the Beat XL belt bag, highlighting the quality of the material and the geometric design of the pattern. On the other hand, this season the Woody Business bag features a "half-tartan" design: the lower part is dressed in British Millerain twill canvas, while the upper part is wrapped in tartan, serving as the bag’s closure.
THE MÉLINE TARTAN TOTE BAG
Somewhere between a work bag and an everyday tote, the Méline tote bag draws inspiration from vintage utility bags once used by workers in their daily tasks.
A true everyday companion with a touch of elegance, it is designed to adapt to every moment. With its perfectly balanced dimensions, it transforms into a versatile carryall, useful in every situation—from quick shopping trips to spontaneous weekend getaways. Its dual carrying options, handheld or over the shoulder, provide exceptional ease of use, ensuring both flexibility and comfort.
What sets it apart is its style—both raw and refined—allowing it to complement any look. It pairs beautifully with a feminine silhouette, especially when worn alongside a smaller, fancier bag, creating a modern and dynamic contrast. It adds a chic touch to any outfit while remaining a timeless accessory.
The Méline Tartan is the ideal tote bag for those who refuse to choose between style and practicality. A faithful ally to your freedom, it combines aesthetics, durability, and versatility, accompanying you throughout your day.
THE MISSAK AVIATOR BAG – TARTAN COLORWAY
In the 1920s and 1930s, pilots needed practical and durable bags to carry their personal belongings and essential equipment. The challenge was significant, as cockpits were cramped and exposed to the elements (humidity, dust, and overheating). A bag had to be lightweight to avoid adding unnecessary weight to the plane, tough enough to withstand harsh conditions, and easy to access for quick use. This gave rise to the aviator bag: a vertical-format bag with sturdy handles and a wide opening for immediate access to its contents.
Reimagined for modern explorers, the Missak aviator bag retains the same essential features as its vintage counterpart. Its carry-on size makes it perfect for all kinds of travel, while its wide opening and rear zippered pocket keep your essentials within easy reach. Just like the original models, we have reinforced the handles and straps with stitched and riveted leather reinforcements. Whether for a weekend getaway or a spontaneous journey, the Missak Tartan quickly becomes the perfect travel companion.
THE BEAT XL BUM BAG, A TARTAN ACCESSORY THAT HIGHLIGHTS THE SILHOUETTE
Fashion is a never-ending cycle, and the return of the belt bag is living proof of that.
Our Beat XL bum bag offers an oversized version of our iconic model. Versatile and trendy, it will fit all your adventures: a busy day, an urban getaway, or a distant trip. The Beat XL stands out with its generous size and optimized storage space. Its 6L capacity allows you to carry all the essentials within easy reach, while its wide strap ensures optimal comfort, even when worn all day.
And like all Bleu de Chauffe products, the tartan bum bag is entirely made in France. Unlike fast fashion, each bag is made from start to finish by a single artisan, ensuring meticulous attention at every stage of its creation. Inside, you'll find a zippered pocket, dated and signed by its creator.
THE WOODY BUSINESS IN "HALF-TARTAN"
Inspired by the iconic Woody backpack, this model stands out with its unique landscape design, offering a sophisticated alternative to traditional business bags. Its Fidlock magnetic buckle and roll-top closure ensure security and flexibility for all your travels.
Completely functional, the main compartment can accommodate a laptop up to 15 inches (16-inch MacBook Pro) and it features 2 external pockets for optimal organization.
In terms of material, the southern part is made of British Millerain twill; the northern part is covered in tartan fabric that closes the bag with the roll-top. England and Scotland united on one bag—what a beautiful symbol of restored peace!
The leather handles and reinforcements feature vegetable tanning, a traditional method that involves turning animal hide into leather using natural tannins from organic substances such as acacia bark, leaves, or sap, mimosa, or chestnut trees.
